Our highly capable and experienced staff are able to provide top quality of service and care. Aldie Vet's Doctors Our Veterinarians are highly trained and experienced doctors. Each having special interests, which includes Surgery (soft tissue, oral, orthopedic and specialized cosmetics), Emergency Care, Internal Medicine, Minimally Invasive (Endoscopic) Procedures and Alternative/Holistic options.
If you are interested in joining our team of excellent veterinary professionals, please visit our Employment Opportunities page. Dr. Drew Luce knew he wanted to be a veterinarian since he was twelve years old. He has spent his life around animals by growing up on a small farm with dogs, cats, horses, and sheep. Dr. Luce attended Virginia Tech where he majored in Animal Science. Subsequently, he received his Doctorate in Veterinary Medicine from Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine in 1990.
Dr. Luce thinks progressively and is dedicated to improving veterinary options available to pets. He has special interests that are focused on breed related diseases, ultrasound, emergency medicine, surgery, especially, orthopedic, and endoscopic and laparoscopic procedures. Dr. Luce has been recognized, by his peers, as one of the Top Veterinarians in Northern Virginia and voted the Best Veterinarian in the DC Suburbs.
In addition, he serves on the Animal Advisory Committee for Loudoun County Animal Services. Dr. Luce worked for two other mixed animal practices before establishing Aldie Veterinary Hospital in 1998. Since that time, Dr. Luce saw a need for a free standing building that was dedicated just to pets healthcare; one location for every service. In 2015, almost 20 years later, he opened the doors to a state-of-the-art facility, he named, Dulles South Veterinary Center.
Aldie Veterinary Hospital moved to Dulles South Veterinary Center, and continues to provide the high standards of patient and customer care. In addition, Dr. Luce established Dulles South Animal Emergency to offer emergency veterinary services. In addition to veterinary anatomy, Dr. Luce enjoys the anatomy of a Corvette engine. During his free time, he takes on the role as mechanic to numerous Corvette enthusiasts in our area.
When pets and vettes are not occupying his time, Dr. Luce has plenty of activities to keep him busy between his wife, three children, and Doberman, Phebe. Dr. Beth Hood joined the Aldie Vet Hospital team back in 2001. She obtained her Doctorate of Veterinary Medicine from the University of Tennessee, College of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Hood has extensive training and experience in emergency and critical care medicine.
When she is not caring for pets at Aldie Vet, she is caring for her horses, sheep, dogs and cats on her farm in Western Loudoun. Dr. Caroline Pattie was born in San Francisco, CA and raised in Arlington, VA. Even as a little girl she knew of her connection with animals and had always dreamed of becoming a veterinarian. She has been an associate with Aldie Vet Hospital since August 2008. Dr. Pattie attended Bridgewater College and received her Bachelor's Degree in Biology in 2002.
She went on to attend the Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine, and was awarded her Doctorate of Veterinary Medicine in 2008. Her professional interests include surgery, diagnostic imaging, and holistic medicine. She received her certification in veterinary acupuncture (CVA) from the Chi Institute of Chinese Medicine. She understands the power of holistic therapies for health and healing, and loves to introduce clients and their pets to integrating it into traditional Western practice.
Dr. Pattie also speaks French, is a Tai Chi practitioner, and enjoys traveling, dancing, cooking and snow skiing. She has two cats (Poly and Lulu), two dogs (Jason and Coyo), and a guinea pig called Bacon in her home in Falls Church, VA. Dr. Ronald Johnson hails originally from Massachusetts. He is one of two brothers, who are both practicing doctors (his brother is a pediatric dentist, on Cape Cod).
Veterinary medicine was a childhood goal for Dr. Johnson, but postponed to pursue musical opportunities. Being trained intensively in clarinet, he pursued a rock ’n roll career in woodwinds through his twenties and traveled the country, living in Hollywood, Santa Monica, Malibu, and Vermont. With veterinary medicine being the end goal, Dr. Johnson received his doctorate from the University of Pennsylvania, School of Veterinary Medicine following a Psychology baccalaureate from the University of Massachusetts.
With a concentration in surgery and emergency medicine, Dr. Johnson has enjoyed practice in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Florida and Virginia. He has a special interest in solving difficult trauma cases. Dr. Johnson’s avocational interests include improvisational woodwinds, photography, reading, and simply enjoying all the nature around him. He shares a mountaintop woodland home overlooking the Shenandoah Valley with his very loved and special black cat.
Dr. Suzanne Barnes was born and raised in Fort Thomas, a small town in Northern Kentucky where she loved animals and singing. She attended Northern Kentucky University where she started her college career in musical theater, then later received two Bachelor degrees in Biology and Business Management in 2008. Deciding to follow her love for animals, she was accepted into Auburn University, College of Veterinary Medicine where she earned her Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree in 2013.
One of Dr. Barnes' proud moments at Auburn University was singing the National Anthem at her graduation. Professionally, her interests include veterinary dentistry, preventative medicine, and emergency medicine. Dr. Barnes has been in the Northern Virginia area for two years with her husband, cat, Border Collie and Labrador. In her free time, she enjoys time in the sun, swimming, billiards, learning guitar, and catching up on the latest TV shows or movies with her husband.
Dr. Susanne Padilla grew up in coastal North Carolina where she enjoyed the salt life. She has loved animals for as long as she can remember. She always knew she wanted to be a veterinarian from a very young age, and has been passionately pursuing this career ever since. As soon as she was old enough, she got a job working with a local veterinarian. What started as just a love for animals quickly developed into a much deeper interest in helping to heal them.
Her dream of becoming a veterinarian eventually came to fruition. She is proud to say that she has devoted her life to treating and caring for the magnificent creatures we are blessed to learn from as well as the families that love and care for them. Dr. Padilla could not think of a more fulfilling professional career. She firmly believes her role as a healer, teacher, comforter, and problem solver are what makes her life so rewarding as a veterinarian.
She has had the pleasure of working with all of God’s creatures, great and small, to include anything from elephants and tigers, to binturongs and kinkajous, to dogs and cats, to turtles and chameleons, to fish and oysters. She loves them all. Dr. Padilla completed her undergraduate degree in Zoology from North Carolina State University. Directly after college, she was accepted to North Carolina State University College of Veterinary Medicine where she earned her Doctor of Veterinary Medicine Degree.
Dr. Padilla’s professional interests include preventative medicine, dermatology, internal medicine, and facilitating the human animal bond. Client education is also of special interest to her. She strives to establish trust, and build the Veterinarian-Client-Patient relationship as seamlessly as possible. She has been recognized by her colleagues as the Best Veterinarian in the DC Suburbs.
In her free time, she enjoys dancing, cooking, baking, photography, traveling, and spending quality time with her family. Her two cats, Figaro and Chloe, her guinea pig, Beans, and her numerous fish bring her immense joy as well. She feels lucky to be a part of such a wonderful world.See Also: Tri County Animal Shelter Hughesville Md
The zoo will probably be an excellent alternative put if you need for getting animals pics without getting a visit to safari in summer time. You are able to acquire their shots in the safe and sound bench that's offered around the cages. To produce you success in using the images of animals that you might want, you may adhere to the following suggestions.
Out of a jungle of rain-washed pines and junipers spearing the hot blueness in the Florida sky, ran a small, tawny-haired boy. His bare feet, extending from his overalled legs, crackled from the fallen palmettos. He leaped in to the air, flinging his arms towards a flock of white doves circling earlier mentioned him.
One food source to stay away from are sunflower seeds, which are generally believed responsible for significant feather plucking problems. Speaking of which, gang gangs should be kept well supplied with fresh branches of eucalypts and other native trees to help avoid boredom which leads inevitably to feather plucking. This is a problem pet gang gangs are particularly prone to.TOP Housing - It used to be that when you bought a cocky, you automatically bought a large cage of galvanised iron wire at the same time.
And that was that. However, there are several important factors to consider when buying a cage for a cockatoo. First, it must be large enough to allow your bird to flap its wings without hitting the bars. There should be adequate room for it to move about and jump from one perch to another and climb the (horizontal) bars. Ideally, the cage should be wider and deeper rather than taller. The minimum size for a small cockatoo like a galah or corella is 70 x 70 x 100 centimetres.
For larger cockatoos you should get a larger cage. It should be strong, too. Very strong. A cockatoo's beak is powerful enough to bend bars and pop joints. Basically, you have the choice of stainless steel or iron. Not only does stainless have the advantages of being strong, easier to clean and free of paint that can chip off, they look pretty good as well. Unfortunately, stainless steel cages are pretty dear.
However, because they'll outlast several iron cages, you should come out ahead in the long run. And, as we've pointed out, owning a cockatoo is invariably a long-run thing. Finally, the cage should be secure. Cockatoos are fiendishly clever and have been known to undo bolts and locks and even dismantle their cages. If the cage features feeder doors, they'll need to be protected as well. Look for a design that prevents your bird from either reaching the doors or being able to open them.
Furnishings. Perches should be native branches of varying thicknesses to exercise the feet and help prevent foot problems. The natural roughness of such branches also helps your bird keep its beak and nails trim. If you use a cement perch instead, make sure it's not the one your cocky sleeps on. (Do not use sandpaper perches; they're harmful to a bird's feet.) Position the perches so that your bird can jump from one to another but not where the droppings can fall onto food bowls or other perches.
Most birds like a high perch for sleeping, so you should put one towards the top, rear of the cage. It's the rare cockatoo who also doesn't enjoy a swing to play on. You should use at least three food dishes: one for soft foods and treats, another for dry foods and the third for water. You'll discover it's much less hassle to change food and water when there is access from the outside. This way you avoid opening the main cage door and disturbing your bird, and you don't have to clean up after he or she overturns the food and/or water dish.
(Which he or she invariably will do.) You only have to watch a cockatoo eat once to realise that their table manners are deplorable. Food goes everywhere. Some cages come with devices which surround the outside of the cage and are designed to catch food and debris. But as you've probably surmised by now, cockatoos only see that as a challenge. So even if you do opt for a seed catcher, be prepared to tidy up around the cage on a regular basis.
Toys. From a physical standpoint, cockatoos are active birds and need regular exercise to keep their muscles in good condition. From the psychological side, cockatoos are also very intelligent and need diversions to keep them from becoming bored and distressed which, in turn, leads to screeching and feather plucking. This is especially true when a bird is left alone for a good part of the day. The solution is pretty simple.
Provide your cocky with lots of activities in the form of ladders, swings, ropes and large link chains, as well as fresh branches for gnawing and chewing. To help keep your bird even more interested, rotate the toys on a regular basis. It's fun to watch your bird when you introduce a new toy. He or she will approach warily then cautiously examine it from all sides. Once satisfied, a cockatoo will play with the toy for hours and hours with only short time-outs to rest.
Because cockatoos are so social and inquisitive, you should put the cage in a room that sees a lot of activity. The best location is a quiet, sunny area away from drafts, sudden temperature changes and cooking fumes. Birds also feel safer being able to look down on things, so placing the cage at eye level or higher will increase its comfort zone, as will covering the cage at night. Maintenance. There are a number of chores which must be carried out on a regular basis.
Every day you should clean the water and food dishes and wipe feather dust from the bars and perches. Twice weekly you should change the bottom trays and replace the soiled litter. Once a week you should wash all the perches and dirty toys. Then every month you should clean the entire cage. If you have an aviary and flight, you should thoroughly hose and disinfect it twice a year, replacing anything that needs replacing, such as old dishes, toys, perches and, of course, the sand on the floor.
Grooming. A cockatoo should have a shower or bath of luke-warm water every week to get rid of its accumulated feather dust and keep its plumage in good shape. You can use either a hand-held plant spray or a hose with a fine-spray head to gently mist your bird. Alternatively, you can put a heavy ceramic dish (30-35 centimetres in diameter) on the bottom of the cage. Your cocky will know what to do from there.
To discourage flight and to prevent escape through an open window or door, it's a good idea to trim both your bird's wings. The beak and claws should also be trimmed if they haven't worn down naturally from climbing and chewing. Forget mineral blocks, lava blocks and other such commercial beak-grooming products. They'll be demolished way too quickly to do any good.TOP Feeding - We've already given you an idea of what the different cockatoo species should be fed.
Along with a good quality mix that has been specially formulated for cockatoos or large parrots, you should add sprouted seeds and all sorts of fresh fruit and vegetables. Apples, pears, plums, sultanas, oranges, bananas, peaches, carrots, broccoli, lettuce, chickweed and dandelions are just a few suggestions that should go down well. And now you can even buy assorted native nuts like those shown here.
On occasion you can also offer proteins such as cottage cheese, bits of cheese, hard-boiled eggs, canned dog food, and cooked meat bones. Stay away from highly seasoned, fatty processed meats. When you do give your bird human food, be very careful about temperature of the food. As long as you're providing a good, varied diet, vitamin and mineral supplements shouldn't be necessary, except in times of change or stress.
Instead of calcium blocks, which cockatoos destroy in no time, you can sprinkle this mineral on your bird's food about once a week. And make sure they always have a fresh supply of water available. Important! Avocado, chocolate and caffeine are poisonous to all birds. Aerosols, tobacco smoke, Teflon and other chemical fumes can also prove fatal. The same goes for some house plants. Behaviour - Highly social birds, cockatoos can be quite demanding when it comes to companionship.
The best way to keep yours from becoming too dependent on his or her principal human and monopolising that person's time is to add a second bird, either another of the same species or one of a similar size. While doing this might seem to double the potential for noise, the fact is contented cockatoos are much less likely to indulge in that sort of continuous, ear-splitting shrieking symptomatic of cockies who feel slighted and unloved.
If you have other pets like dogs and cats, it's possible your cockatoo(s) could establish friendly relations with them. Then again, they might not. You'll just have to wait and see. However, you definitely should keep smaller animals such as rodents and small birds away from any cockatoo. That beak can be fatal. Because of their sensitivity, cockatoos can become extremely jealous of babies and small children.
Never, ever leave them together unattended. In most cases, cockatoos do fine with older children, but you won't know for certain until the relationship has had time to develop. As we explained above, exercise and play are important activities for the physical and psychological health of all cockatoos. One sure sign that your cockatoo is both fit and happy is when he or she spends most waking hours performing, or examining and manipulating toys and other cage objects and inventing new games.
Contented cockies also love to show off by dancing, bobbing their heads, hanging upside down with outspread wings and calling loudly. As well as being highly active, cockatoos are very curious about their environment. The problem is, once free of the confines of their cages, they can be powerful flyers. And unlike other pet birds you might be used to, cockatoos have short tails and therefore are unable to stop quickly when flying.
The risk of serious injury from crashing into walls or windows provides another good reason to have its wings clipped. If you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, we can do it for you. The feathers will regrow in about a year. Training - You won't get very far until your cockatoo trusts you. Implicitly. Buying a hand-raised baby means your bird will already be used to human contact, and training will be that much easier.
Otherwise, you'll probably have to spend time just to get over a new cockatoo's tendency to jump off its perch and retreat to the most distant corner of the cage whenever you approach. Besides time, taming and training take patience. Lots of it. As with most animals you should move slowly and not make any sudden movements. Start by talking with your new friend until it lets you approach the cage without taking evasive action.
Next comes hand taming. Offer treats from outside the cage until your bird becomes used to your hand. Then open the cage door, slowly reach in and do the same thing. At no point should you ever punish your pet; this will just undo the rapport you've spent so much time building. Once you've earned its trust, your cockatoo will begin climbing on your hand and allowing you to pet him or her. Cockatoos form such strong bonds with their human(s) that they will work for love rewards.
In return they expect lots of attention. Even if you go out for just a short while, your cockatoo will expect to be greeted and/or scratched as soon as you walk back in the door. You should consider cockatoos who talk a bonus. Aside from some individual corellas, cockatoos are not usually the best talkers of the parrot family. Those who do learn tend to have limited vocabularies and poor enuciation.
Chances are though, yours will provide so much entertainment performing tricks that you'll never miss a bit of chat. Health - Well-cared-for cockatoos seldom become ill. Those that do will most likely be bothered by parasites, intestinal inflammation, coccidiosis or respiratory ailments. You've also probably heard of parrot fever (psittacosis). While cockatoos are susceptible and the disease can be both dangerous and contagious to humans, it is not common.
Conversely, a healthy cockatoo can pose a threat to some people. The bird's skin produces a fine, white powder which causes reactions with some allergy sufferers. If your cockatoo does become ill, telltale signs include plumage that loses lustre, looks ruffled or shows bare areas; loss of appetite; sneezing or discharge from the nostrils; slitted eyes plus excess sleeping, using both feet instead of tucking one up.
Some sick cockies will start to pluck their feathers, move oddly and start screaming neurotically. Any change in the feces can also be a sign of illness. If your bird shows any of these symptoms, isolate it in a hospital cage with an infrared lamp placed about 60 centimetres away. If it does not perk up within 24 hours, bring your cocky to us for diagnosis and treatment. Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD).
Although strains of the virus affect pigeons, doves, finches and seagulls, this is predominately a disease of parrots, in particular sulphur-crested cockatoos and lorikeets. Younger birds tend to be more susceptible than older birds. In the wild as many as 30 to 40% of parrots may carry PBFD. Affecting the skin and immune system, the disease manifests itself through a host of feather abnormalities including loss, breakage, discolouration and pinching or narrowing.
Loss of feathers not only means the birds cannot fly, they also lose insulation. In many - but not all - cases, beaks may be overgrown, deformed or fractured. In time these birds will starve or succumb to secondary infection. Because feather abnormalities can have many causes, the only reliable method of diagnosing PBFD involves blood tests. However, positive results don't necessary indicate the bird has developed the disease; it still could be shedding the organism.
Some birds can either clear the virus from their systems or continously shed it. But almost all birds with clinical symptoms testing positive will eventually die from the disease or secondary infections. A few, usually lorikeets, recover. While the actual virus can be killed by chlorine disinfectants, there is no treatment for the disease. If you haven't already been to our Birds page, you'll discover plenty of useful information about birds in general there.